4 Female Chefs in Asia Who Are Championing Heritage Cuisine

These four award-winning chefs found their identity in heritage cuisine and unabashedly pursued the heights of the F&B industry — they just so happen to be women.

10 June 2024

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They were all, once upon a time, on paths leading to careers outside the culinary spectrum. These four mavericks, however, were quickly drawn back into the heat of the kitchen by an unquenchable passion for the culinary arts — a passion which all stemmed from one common denominator: family heritage. It is perhaps no surprise that they have ridden this wave of passion into a sea of admirable accolades.

Sharing one’s heritage cuisine can be a daunting task in which its maker puts herself in a position of vulnerability. More than just spotlighting the cuisines of the past however, these masters of their craft have elevated their traditional cuisine with authentic stories, purposeful techniques and, of course, their inherent passion to spread joy with food.

 

Photo caption: Fusion by heritage, Canadian-born Hong Konger Chef May Chow has been championing her unique and authentic brand of cuisine in Hong Kong since 2013. | Photo credit: Little Bao

Chef May Chow – Little Bao, Hong Kong

At the heart of what Chef May brings to the table is authenticity. As a Canadian-born Hong Konger however, it was not always a straightforward route in reconciling her cultural heritage. “Am I really Chinese? Why do I sound so American?” Chef May once questioned.

After a period of self-discovery, she quit her hotel management course at Boston University and dived head first into the culinary industry, halfway across the world in Hong Kong. It was there she found her authenticity and expressed it unerringly with her food at Little Bao since 2013 in the form of “Chinese burgers”, a perfect encapsulation of May Chow on a plate. “If you define me, my food is exactly me,” she says. “That bao is me – Chinese but understands American culture – putting the two sides together in an honest way.”

Photo Caption: The famous Pork Belly Bao at Little Bao consists of slow-braised pork belly, sesame mayo, hoisin ketchup and a shiso leek salad. | Photo credit: Little Bao

It has now been seven years since she earned the title of Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, and she has only grown from strength to strength. On top of appearances on high-profile culinary television programmes like MasterChef Asia and Top Chef, the chef-turned-restaurateur also indulged in a “journey of self-exploration” by opening Happy Paradise, a modern Chinese bistro she described as her “love letter to Chinese cuisine” re-imagined with her signature flair. Her ode to authenticity drew the attention of the best in the industry, having had collaborations with the likes of Chef Ton of Le Du, Chef Prateek Sadhu then of Masque, and even hosted the late Chef Anthony Bourdain in his “Parts Unknown” series.

Although the Happy Paradise “project” came to a close in 2022, it is only the latest iteration of Chef May we are bidding farewell to. To keep ideas fresh and, more importantly, genuinely authentic, her food must also evolve as she does. “I believe Happy Paradise will return but probably in a much more mature and evolved way. Goodbye to twenties May of parties, drinking and neons,” shared Chef May. “I think it sets a great pedestal for us to continue to strive forward.”

Photo caption: Asia’s Best Female Chef 2023 Chef Johanne Siy of Lolla in Singapore | Photo credit: Lolla

Chef Johanne Siy – Lolla, Singapore

Having developed a love for the kitchen from a young age when she would cook for her brothers in her seaside hometown of Dagupan in Manila, Chef Jo learned the value of exceptional ingredients. “I grew up about five minutes from the beach so there was great, very fresh seafood – so fresh that you don’t need to do much to it,” said the Philippines native.

Now based in Singapore, the former marketing executive champions the use of “exceptional ingredients, very simply prepared” at Lolla, plating up modern European cuisine with Asian accents, an endeavour that saw her earn the crown of Asia’s Best Female Chef 2023 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Photo caption: Chef Johanne Siy’s Crab Relleno was inspired by her upbringing in Dagupan, Philippines. | Photo credit: Lolla Instagram

A true example of her culinary ethos is the Crab Relleno, an elevated take on the Filipino dish Rellenong Bagus (stuffed milkfish). Instead of fish, a crab shell is “stuffed” with another Philippines-based delicacy Aligue, a paste made from crab fat, along with crab meat, burnt cabbage and pearl couscous before finishing with smoked paprika foam, kaffir lime oil, kaffir lime leaves and mustard flowers.

Photo caption: Chef Pichaya ‘Pam’ Soontornyanakij of Potong in Bangkok was named Asia’s Best Female Chef 2024 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants | Photo credit: Potong

Chef Pichaya ‘Pam’ Soontornyanakij – Potong, Bangkok

“My mum said to me, why don’t you go and learn cooking?” shared Chef Pam, who at the time was a disillusioned communications student, oblivious to the impact that nudge would have on her future. Years of culinary training and prestigious internships later, Chef Pam became the first female chef to win her restaurant, Potong, both a Michelin star and Opening of the Year by Michelin in 2023, and she followed that up by earning the crown of Asia’s Best Female Chef 2024 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants – all at the tender age of 34. 

Thai by birth and fifth-generation Chinese by descent, Chef Pam’s first adventures in the kitchen were led by her mother who often cooked and hosted banquets for friends and family – and that experience has made a lasting impression on Potong’s Thai-Chinese cuisine today, exemplified by the Roast Duck course within Chef Pam’s delectable tasting menu.

 

Photo caption: The stunning Roast Duck course at Chef Pam’s Potong restaurant is served on a personal two-tier lazy susan as a homage to her heritage. | Photo credit: Instagram @Chef.Pam

Roasted duck brain, crispy duck and 14-day five-spiced aged duck are presented with other goodies on a personal two-tiered lazy susan as an homage to Chef Pam’s childhood, where it was a common sight to see her family and friends gathered around the dining table marvelling at her mom’s creations.

Photo caption: Chef Aditi Dugar’s food “discovery” trips across India inspired the concept behind her award-winning restaurant Masque. | Photo credit: Aditi Dugar

Chef Aditi Dugar – Masque, Mumbai

Cultivated by her weekends at her grandparents’ place in Bandra, Mumbai as a child, Chef Aditi’s passion for food took her across India in search of the country’s best seasonal produce. “My nana (grandmother) was so particular about making everything from scratch. We had a cowshed in our home in Mumbai, that’s how seriously we would take it, and that on some level filtered down to me, and I think influenced the core of Masque,” shared Chef Aditi.

After a brief hiatus from the kitchen when she attempted to dive into the world of finance, she quickly jumped back in at her first opportunity to return to her first love. As chance would have it, she crossed paths with restaurateur Flora Hilleary, with whom she opened her first restaurant Sage and Saffron. The pair then embarked on a “discovery trip” across India, meeting vendors, and farmers while learning about the nuances of each region’s cuisine. They eventually landed in Himachal where they struck gold. “It was when we stumbled upon the Himachali treasure trove of unexplored ingredients, the exciting flavours and cooking techniques of the region that it hit us – this was an idea for a full-fledged restaurant, waiting to be executed,” she said. “I began to realise that there were no fine dining restaurants in India that were cooking Indian food, with Indian produce, with the same kind of pride you’d find in San Sebastian or Scandinavia — and that was the idea that sparked off Masque. We wanted to put up a restaurant that spotlighted Indian produce and worked with local producers.”

Photo caption: Idiyappam with Coconut Stew and Duck Floss from Masque Restaurant. | Photo credit: Instagram @masquerestaurant

Her efforts did not go unnoticed. Dishes such as her seasonally evolving Pani Puri and Idiyappam with Coconut Stew and Duck Floss continue to push the boundaries of Indian cuisine while highlighting the unique culinary heritage of the country’s hidden gems. It was a feat that saw Masque named One To Watch in 2020 before claiming the title of Best Restaurant in India in 2023 and 2024, where it was ranked 23rd in Asia, by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Author: Julianna Hedger

Julianna is a seasoned content specialist who started her writing career in unscripted television production and broadcast news at FOX Sports Asia and the Associated Press. She has since added various writing skills to her repertoire, such as long-from articles, SEO-driven blogs and social media copywriting. She is driven by her personal passions in content creation, food and sports media.

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