Breaking Gender Stereotypes in the Culinary World – The inspiring and honest Natsuko Shoji of Été, who won Asia’s Best Female Chef 2022
Japanese pastry chef Natsuko Shoji’s resilience propelled her from family hardship to culinary stardom, overcoming personal loss and societal barriers to build a successful career. This journey culminated in the establishment of the acclaimed restaurant, Été.
28 March 2024
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Photo Credit:Fleurs d’ été
At the age of 19, while working as a pastry chef at the two-Michelin-starred Florilège restaurant, Natsuko faced the loss of her father, who succumbed to his battle with alcoholism. With her mother occupied with caring for Natsuko’s sister, who faced mental health challenges, Natsuko felt compelled to support her family.
This drive led her to establish her own business a few years later.
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
It all began with her pastry business, Fleurs d’ été (flowers of summer) where in no time Natsuko’s delicious and gorgeous fruit tarts and cakes–inspired by her love for high fashion–became highly sought after in Tokyo. Her signature mango tart– each fruit piece carved with great precision and detail, won her Asia’s Best Pastry Chef Award 2020 and set Natsuko on the path to culinary fame. Her sweet creations have sold to customers as famous as David Beckham and Rene Redzepi.
After a successful start and securing more funding, Natsuko opened Été, an exclusive one-table, six-seat intimate restaurant in Shibuya, the heart of Tokyo. With French-inspired menus and a focus on the finest, seasonal ingredients, Été featured on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2022.
Natsuko’s unique artistic approach and creative craftsmanship have led to multiple awards– these include Asia’s Best Pastry Chef 2020. Asia’s Best Female Chef 2022 and The Best Chef FoodArt Award 2022 in Madrid. She has her sights set on many more.
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
A Bitter Start
Natsuko’s dream was always to open a restaurant but the banks wouldn’t lend her enough money. They were reluctant to finance a young female chef as 100% owner because there weren’t (and still aren’t!) many women-owned restaurant owners in Japan, and hardly any with 100% female ownership.
Photo Credit: L’Effervescence
Fortunately, Natsuko secured a loan amounting to 10 million Yen (approximately $90K SGD). However, she harboured the realisation that, had she been a male chef, the loan granted for a restaurant would likely have been 5-6 times larger. This disparity in treatment based on gender proved to be a significant challenge for the young chef.
Nevertheless, it served as a pivotal moment, motivating her to exert even greater effort to establish herself.
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
Sweet Dreams Are Made of This
The loan Natsuko received was enough to open a pastry shop, Fleurs d’ été.
Opening year was tough and Natsuko had a difficult time hiring staff. Nobody wanted to work with a young female chef just starting on her own—reflecting the prevalent age and gender bias of that time. Natsuko decided to recruit culinary students from her old high school, Komaba Gakuen High School (where she now teaches) where many were eager to work with her and learn on the job. Natsuko poured her heart and soul into her pastry business and with her unique artistic flair and expertise, the outcome was spectacularly sweet for this culinary star.
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
An Open and Inclusive Mindset
While Natsuko no longer has to struggle to find a loan or hire staff— she acknowledges that in a post-pandemic world, the culinary business is not always seen as a stable career choice. Natsuko feels that a more intentional approach is needed to attract new, young talent, and this includes hiring inclusively. Natsuko does not believe in gender labels, “we should focus more on the personality of the person, their passion, their talent, and work.” CVs in Japan require applicants to identify as male or female, with no other gender options provided. Natsuko hopes that the industry will focus more on personality and work ethic, giving equal opportunities to all. She is also committed to hiring neurodivergent staff and supporting team members’ development and growth. Natsuko would love to see more 100% female-owned restaurants in Japan. Natsuko is a breath of fresh air in an old-school business, with her progressive outlook that is both accepting and inclusive.
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
Be The Change She Wants to See
Natsuko believes chefs should be viewed at the same level as artists, designers, and even musicians. She loves design and new ideas and is a big believer in collaborations with her creators to elevate the craft. She has collaborated with artists like Takashi Murakami and brands like Verdy and HexClad (with Gordon Ramsay) Natsuko feels that there needs to be a revolution in the industry to increase the intrinsic value for everyone so that chefs, just like artists and designers can assign a higher value to their creations, without being questioned or challenged. However, she specifies that “this will require a shift in mindset both within the industry and externally as well”.
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
Family Focused
While one of Natsuko’s goals is to be recognised as one of the world’s best female chefs (although she wishes for a world where awards need not have gender labels either), supporting her family is a priority. With her mother and other family members aging, Natsuko feels a greater sense of responsibility toward the elderly. She hopes that future generations will find it in themselves to take care of their families irrespective of gender, as traditionally, in Japan, only the eldest son financially supports elderly parents.
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
Natsuko is fond of children and hopes to be able to adopt a child one day. She admires her mentor, Hong Kong-based Chef Vicky Lau, for embracing motherhood and striking a balance with the demands of being a top chef. Natsuko recently made a significant donation to a charity providing funding for underprivileged children in vulnerable situations.
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
Her Inner Voice: Miss Été
How does Natsuko stay humble despite all her success at such a young age? Natsuko stays connected with her younger self—a persona she has named Miss Été! Natsuko’s inner voice, Miss Été, keeps her grounded, reminds her not to get lazy or arrogant, and helps her view her success with humility and objectivity. Miss Été often asks Natsuko the important questions like, What can you do for society? What will you do for the future generation?
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
Natsuko embodies elegance, artistry, and creativity alongside a focused, driven, and goal-oriented approach. Like the exquisite butterfly, symbolizing Été — and adorning many of her magnificent creations — she consistently astounds and captivates her fans and customers. Beyond the beauty and whimsy of her work, she demonstrates resilience in adapting to and embracing change.
Photo Credit: Fleurs d’ été
Author: Namita Moolani Mehra
Namita is a freelance food and parenting writer, and a published cookbook and children’s book author. Namita is the founder of social-impact business, Indian Spicebox, a company that has helped fund over half a million hot meals for underprivileged children in India. Namita crafts delightful culinary experiences like street food pop-ups and spice workshops. She currently lives in Singapore with her husband and two young children. Visit her online at www.namitamehra.com
