How to Make Your Wine List More Sustainable
4 December 2024
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Photo credit: Artfarm
WITH CONSUMERS MORE INTERESTED IN SUSTAINABLE OPTIONS THAN EVER BEFORE, IT’S TIME TO TURN YOUR ATTENTION TO YOUR WINE LIST. IN THIS ARTICLE, WE HIGHLIGHT WHAT YOUR RESTAURANT SHOULD LOOK FOR WHEN SOURCING WINES SUSTAINABLY, SHARING REAL INSIGHTS FROM RESTAURANTS AND WINE EXPERTS IN OUR NETWORK.
Your customers want sustainable wine
Customer interest in sustainable sourcing has officially reached the wine list. A 2024 report in the UK reveals that almost 74% of wine drinkers try to lead an environmentally-friendly lifestyle — and that 80% of them would pay more for an ethically sourced wine. The report recommends that sustainability-focused descriptions on the wine list would be an effective way to secure this premiumisation. So what makes a sustainable wine, and how can you go about sourcing them?
What to look for in building a sustainable wine list?
How do your wine choices impact the soil?
As with every other type of agriculture, it matters how winemakers treat their soils. “Soil health is absolutely essential,” says Ania Smelskaya of April Wines. “The way soil is managed and cared for is critical, as healthy soil underpins sustainable viticulture. I seek out winemakers who invest in soil regeneration and use natural, sustainable methods.”
“We buy our wine from independent, low intervention winemakers who look after the soil, growing responsibly to protect our planet,” says Sarah Brading, Co-Founder at Flat Earth Pizzas. “We always ask about the farming methods used (such as organic, regenerative or biodynamic farming) because we need to understand how they treat the soil.”
In practice, this means looking for vineyards and winemakers that avoid chemical pesticides and fertilisers, plant cover crops, avoid unnecessary soil disturbance or compaction, and protect biodiversity and natural habitats. Organic, biodynamic and regenerative agricultural methods can encompass all of these, but it’s important to remember that cost can be a barrier to organic certification for many smaller wineries — practices and ethos ultimately matter more than the paperwork. “Many of the winemakers we choose practice organic or biodynamic viticulture,” Sarah continues.” A lot of our wine is certified, but we understand that some producers are just ‘practicing organic’ due to the costs associated.”
One fantastic UK example of winemaking with soil health in mind is Candover Brook, a vineyard and wine company producing high-quality English sparkling wines. Owned by brothers Mark and Julian Sainsbury, the vineyard and the farm that surrounds it are operated according to sustainable and regenerative agricultural principles, with the goals of maintaining healthy soils, sequestering carbon, preserving ancient woodlands and protecting natural biodiversity.
“To minimise our impact on the environment, we are constantly questioning and improving our practices,” says Vineyard Manager Samuel Philippot, who works very closely with the estate’s Director of Farming in finding ways to keep improving the soil on the land; for example, meadow grasses and clovers are planted in between the vines, and sheep graze the site in spring and winter to keep the grass low and promote soil fertility. They’re experimenting with using sheep fleeces as mulch – an environmentally friendly option that offers a source of slow-release nitrogen, supports weed and pest control and helps to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. They’re currently planning to bring chickens into the vineyard to boost soil fertility and manage slugs and snails without resorting to pesticides.
“We are constantly trying to feed our soil, reduce any spray use and make the vineyard and wider farm as healthy as possible,” says General Manager Gareth Maxwell. “It is much easier to just use fertilisers and chemicals to reduce labour costs, improve yields and fight disease, but this damages the environment significantly. If UK hospitality companies choose vineyards who are working sustainably and regeneratively, this is an ethos that flows throughout the entire business, so they can be safe in the knowledge that they are buying a top quality product from local people, supporting local jobs and keeping any negative impact on the environment as low as possible.”
Photo credit: Ania Smelskaya of April Wines
Reducing your footprint through the supply chain
The impact of a wine is not limited to the vineyard: the wine industry has a substantial environmental footprint throughout the value chain, including manufacturing, packaging and transport. Working to ensure a minimal environmental footprint is as important in your wine sourcing as it is for your food offering. Choosing suppliers who are thoughtful about reducing their carbon footprint and their use of packaging, energy and water — and encouraging this in your existing suppliers — can encourage positive change throughout the supply chain.
At Flat Earth Pizzas, they work predominantly with Sustainable Wine Solutions, who transport wine in bulk directly from vineyards across Europe. The wine is then bottled in London and combined with a biodegradable label and a recycled cork. “The wine bottles are delivered to us in recycled and reusable plastic crates. Empty bottles are collected, sanitised and refilled, creating a closed circular economy,” Sarah explains.
“While many focus on lighter bottles, I’m interested in wineries that go even further, like using self-sealing boxes that don’t require tape or water-soluble glues for labels to make recycling easier,” says Ania. “I’m also wary of unnecessary, non-recyclable elements like plastic-based wax tops, which might look stylish but are difficult to dispose of properly. I prefer simpler options, such as leaving bottles ‘naked’ without aluminium capsules. Minimalism can be beautiful.”
Ania helpfully provides a list of suggested questions that hospitality businesses can ask winemakers and suppliers to reduce the environmental footprint throughout the supply chain.
- What sustainable choices have you made regarding packaging?
- Have you considered alternative formats or lighter bottles to reduce your environmental impact?
- How do you handle trends that might be environmentally damaging? Are there practices you deliberately avoid for the sake of sustainability?
- Are you conscious of your electricity and water use in the winemaking process, and what measures have you implemented to minimise consumption?
- Have you explored any community-driven initiatives, like sharing equipment with neighbouring wineries to reduce resource use collectively?
- For suppliers: Would you consider systems for reusing packaging, such as collecting and reusing cardboard boxes or setting up a glass bottle return scheme?
- Is there a way to reduce paper waste by digitising delivery notes and invoices?
What about Social Sustainability?
The people behind the brand matter, too: fair labour practices and social responsibility are essential elements of sustainability, and considering the wellbeing of the communities impacted by the wine production process is crucial. “I prefer working with honest, passionate winemakers, often family-run vineyards, rather than large corporations simply riding the natural wine wave,” says Ania. “Authenticity and genuine commitment to sustainability are what truly matter.”
The team at Flat Earth Pizzas takes a similar approach. “We look for wines with integrity, made by hands-on, conscientious producers who prioritise authentic flavours, respect for the environment, and a minimal-intervention approach,” says Sarah. “We also celebrate and support women winemakers.”
How a business interacts with its community is important, too. “We always ask whether there is a strong story and philosophy behind the wine,” Sarah continues. “We like to support those who are working hard to make a difference to their community and the world.” Candover Brook is an example of this, employing up to 60 people on the land at peak times of the year, and their goal is for more of the local community to become involved in the vineyard.
Prioritising smaller brands can also mean higher quality. “We avoid any large-scale, conventional producers,” says Sarah. “Due to the nature of their bulk production, there are often a lot of stabilisers and additives added to ensure that each bottle tastes the same. We like the wine to be as natural as possible.”
Photo Credit: Flat Earth Pizza
Photo Credit: Flat Earth Pizza
Speaking of Quality
Sustainability is crucial, but it doesn’t have to come at the expense of quality — in fact, they often go hand in hand. Drinks Category Manager for Artfarm, Rob Lorrigan, approaches wine sourcing from a quality-first angle, and shares that, in practice, this often leads him to buy from sustainable winemakers who are working with respect for nature. “While we are not dogmatic on viticulture, we are on quality,” he explains. “We respect that the best winemakers work harmoniously in the vineyard, crafting wines of character that are defined by a sense of place; the presence of nature is in the glass. In pursuing these standards, we find that many of the wines we choose across our sites are those with less intervention and more sustainable agricultural methods — potentially organic or biodynamic.”
“We taste every single wine that lands on our shelves and menu,” says Sarah. “Once all the other boxes have been ticked, we also need to ensure that the wine itself tastes great and will pair well with our pizzas.”
The quality of Candover Brook sparkling wines is evident in the plethora of awards the wines have garnered in recent years; in 2024, these included a Gold Award at the Sommelier Wine Awards and two Gold Wine GB Awards among other accolades.
More About Candover Brook
Owned by brothers Mark and Julian Sainsbury and producing high-quality English sparkling wines, Candover Brook vineyard is named after the chalk stream that runs through Hampshire’s Candover Valley. “Chalk streams are almost uniquely English and our chalk soil is the key defining element of our vineyard’s topography. The Candover Brook is one of the few remaining habitats of the rare English white-clawed crayfish. Both the brook and its crayfish are celebrated in the design of our label,” says Mark. You can learn more at www.candoverbrook.co.uk.
Photo Credit: Artfarm
Photo Credit: Ania Smelskaya of April Wines
Source: The Sustainable Restaurant Association
