Goa’s Bawri Restaurant Boasts a Gas-Free Kitchen Where Heritage Recipes Are Cooked Over Open Flame
Chef Amninder Sandhu’s culinary philosophy can be captured in three words — fire, flavour, and family traditions.
10 November 2024
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Chef Amninder Sandhu. Photo Credit : Bawri
“When we envisioned Bawri, we were clear on two essentials: reviving rare cooking traditions and creating the warmth you feel when visiting your grandmother or family after a long time,’’ says India’s National Award-winning chef Amninder Sandhu, who has also featured in Netflix’s The Final Table “We’re trying to make you fall in love with Indian tradition and culture, while not just evoking but also creating memories.”
Bawri is a playful name derived from the Indian vernacular word for ‘crazy’. it’s not just a restaurant — it’s an adventure spearheaded by talented Chef Amninder Sandhu. Chef Sandhu and founding partner Sahil Sambhi are rewriting the rules of Indian cuisine, which span decades, regions, and traditions. At the heart of this journey is Sandhu, a passionate bawri who resurrects heirloom recipes and lost techniques to bring the bold, complex flavours of India’s diverse culinary heritage to life.
In the Smoked Mutton Chops the tandoor imparts a unique flavour, making it a prized centrepiece of Bawri’s kitchen. Photo credit: Bawri
From smoked Mutton Chops to the renowned Raan Biryani, every dish at Bawri tells a story of nostalgia – a tribute to heritage recipes, with careful attention to each element and ingredient. Here, goat meat is slow-cooked for hours in a tandoor until it’s barely clinging to the bone. The tandoor imparts a unique flavour, making it a prized centrepiece of Bawri’s kitchen. The intense heat and the fat rendered from the meat dripping onto hot coals give the mutton chops a deep, smoky taste. The Raan Biryani, crafted from a whole lamb leg has an intricate marination process that imparts a rich, aromatic quality, making it perfect for festive occasions.
Bawri Goa’s low seating option is akin to the traditional Indian way of eating while sitting on the floor. Photo credit: Bawri
Walking into Bawri is akin to stepping into a warm hug from your favourite aunt. The ambience at the restaurant in Goa exudes rustic charm, with a coastal cottage vibe enhanced by serene water features and floating cabanas. Inspired by local Goan artisan bamboo and pottery communities, design elements showcase the beauty of bamboo and pottery, infusing the space with an earthy allure. Designed by Vivek Guha of Orphic Design Studio, the space boasts an open kitchen under an impressive 18-foot canopy, where the sizzling of tandoors and the flicker of flames from the bhatti (ancient open fire grill) reinforce Bawri’s cooking philosophy, and a low seating option that embraces the traditional Indian way of eating while sitting on the floor.
Sandhu’s focus on open-fire cooking imparts a distinct flavour to each dish. Photo credit: Bawri
A Gas-Free Revolution
After pioneering India’s first gas-free kitchen at Mumbai’s Arth restaurant in 2017, Sandhu has continued this vision at Bawri, embracing sustainability at its core. By eliminating gas, Bawri adopts an eco-friendly approach that prioritises natural resources and reduces its carbon footprint. Relying on wood, tandoors, clay pots and other organic materials honours traditional practices and fosters a deeper connection with the environment. This shift challenges conventional dining norms and promotes a healthier, more sustainable lifestyle. Sandhu’s focus on open-fire cooking imparts a distinct flavour to each dish, enhancing its authenticity and celebrating ancestral techniques that define Indian cuisine.
Bawri’s Wild Mango Curry, uses mangoes locally grown in Goa. Photo credit: Bawri
Her commitment further includes creating a seed-oil-free kitchen where meals are prepared using pure ghee (clarified butter) from grass-fed cows, cold-pressed coconut oil and olive oil. The poultry is free from antibiotics and greens and spices are sourced from their regions of origin such as a variety of potato and black rice from the northeast of India or a wild mango locally grown in Goa.
Heritage Dishes, Steeped In Tradition
The menu at Bawri is a curated selection of dishes that reflect the diversity of Indian cuisine. Each plate tells a story, drawing inspiration from regional flavours and traditional recipes. Signature dishes, such as the Smoked Dal Makhani and Charcoal-grilled paneer, showcase Sandhu’s mastery of open-flame cooking. Each bite evokes memories of home-cooked meals and festive gatherings. Sandhu’s contributions to Indian cuisine haven’t gone unnoticed.
Sandhu’s mastery of open-fire cooking is the cornerstone of Bawri’s cuisine. Photo credit: Bawri
Awards and Accolades
Sandhu’s innovative approach to traditional cooking has garnered her numerous accolades, including a National Award, recognition as Best Lady Chef by the Ministry of Tourism in 2016, and a feature on Netflix. She has also been invited to host international pop-ups at Michelin-starred Café Boulud and L.A.’s Otium by Chef Tim Hollingsworth. Among her other ventures are the comfort food delivery brand Ammu and a new Bawri in Mumbai following the success of its Goa location. At Tipai, a wildlife resort near Mumbai, she’s crafted a unique dining experience with a degustation menu served in a clearing in the woods.
Celebrated as “the girl with gold in her fingers” by the renowned Chef Marco Pierre White, Sandhu shows no signs of slowing down. In an era of fast and convenient dining, Bawri stands out as a reminder of the beauty of slow cooking, the importance of sustainability, and the joy of sharing food steeped in tradition.
Yogurt Kebab. Photo credit: Bawri
Bawri Naan. Photo credit: Bawri
Jackfruit Haleem. Photo credit: Bawri
Tiger Prawns. Photo credit: Bawri
Stuffed Bhavnagri Chilli. Photo credit: Bawri
Kakori Kebab. Photo credit: Bawri
Author: Pooja Thakur
Pooja Thakur is a senior journalist, writer, and editor with over 20 years of experience in print and digital media and in creating custom content for periodicals. She has been a long-serving senior reporter at Bloomberg News covering areas such as real estate, stocks and personal finance and investing across markets with a focus on Southeast Asia and India. In her free time, she enjoys scuba diving, rucking and finding the newest watering hole in town.
